Using X-Seal Acrylic-120C Cold Cure Impregnant

X-Seal is an impregnating sealant and a catalyst. When mixed together it can be applied using either a pipette or by spraying. It cures in 2 to 3 minutes.

Using X-Seal Acrylic-120C Cold Cure

Preparing the Application Area for X-Seal Acrylic 120C Cold Cure

The application area needs to be thoroughly prepared prior to mixing the X-Seal as once mixed it cures within a few minutes

• The area to be treated must be dry.
• Clear previous treatments unless useful to retain sealant.
• Pre-fill large voids with inert absorbent filler (cotton wool, sand, slate powder etc).
• X-Seal is a strong glue so avoid hinges etc or remove these if possible.

Applying X-Seal Acrylic-120C Cold Cure

There are four application options for X-Seal

• X-Seal can be poured direct from the mixing cup.
• X-Seal can be applied using pipettes for small areas.
• X-Seal can be applied by spraying.
• X-Seal can be applied by injection by hypodermic syringe.

Cleaning Up Afterwards

Any damp residue on the surface will evaporate off.

Excesses can be wiped away.

Utensils can be rinsed in water before curing.

X-Seal A-120C for Commercial Application

X-Seal Acrylic-120C is available for large scale contract application, using compressed air assisted spraying.

Coverage

When treating large flat surfaces with moderate subsurface density X-Seal will cover approximately 3 to 4 square metres per litre.

X-Seal Acrylic-120C Cold Cure Usage Overview and Examples

Fast gluing anything to anything

Due to its low viscosity, Acrylic-120C has the benefit of fully wetting out the surfaces to be glued together, giving it unparalleled adhesion to most substrates.

Gluing dry pre-assembled broken items by post impregnation

It is often easier to reassemble a broken object dry and then to drip feed Acrylic-120C directly onto the joints between the parts. It is important to ensure that full saturation of the sealant is achieved

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A Better Way to Glue

Acrylic-120C makes an easier, stronger and better job of gluing than traditional methods. As a comparison, consider how to glue with a traditional latex adhesive:

Traditional Latex Gluing

Gluing a peg in a hole where both peg and hole are coated with a traditional adhesive results in most of the glue being scraped off at the important interface when bringing the two items together. Gluing time is 12 to 24 hours.

Gluing with X-Seal Acrylic 120C

Assemble the items dry. Drip feed the sealant at the interface until saturation by impregnation has been established.

A further benefit of this method of application is that complete assemblies can be achieved before applying the adhesive. Gluing time 10 minutes.

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Sealing one metal shaft or tube into another using X-Seal Acrylic 120C

The same principle described above can be applied to sealing one metal shaft or tube into another. As an example capillary pipe fittings were assembled and each joint fed with X-Seal Acrylic 120C in place of solder.

Within 30 minutes, the fixture was filled with water and pressurised to 600 psi without leakage.

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Impregnation weather protection against ingress of moisture

Drip feed Acrylic-120C onto anywhere water ingress is suspected. First fill any large voids on a vertical or overhead face with dry filler, for example, cotton wool or similar host material.

Avoid high density fillers such as fine powders. The sealant will follow the water track into the substrate where it sets up a water resistant barrier.

The substrate must be dry at the time of application. Where possible, start from above the defect area and allow the sealant to run down into it. Saturation is important.

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Firming up of friable objects such as stone brick, wood and composite materials

Constant wet/dry conditions, environmental contamination and the effects of sub zero temperatures are the main causes of structural breakdown. To provide protection, Acrylic-120C is best applied by spray lance so as to ensure an adequate level of saturation.

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Filling Cavities Properly

It is important to ensure that any cavities in a structure are filled and sealed to avoid water trapment that can result in frost damage. This impregnation sealant is to be able to 'dry fill' cavities and voids and then bind with the impregnation.

Fillers have been generally stiff pre-mixed products, making it difficult to ensure that the cavity is correctly filled and the filler is in effective contact with the surfaces of the void. To 'dry fill' the void overcomes this problem as the impregnation sealant is able to fully saturate to ensure proper fusion of the fill in the cavity.

Choosing a Matching Filler

Most granular filling compounds can be used. Where appearance matters, it is feasible to consider ground up identical host material such as the matching of lime stone.

Sawdust, particularly hardwood, can be used when filling cavities in wood. Fine sand is excellent for filling voids in masonry.

The impregnation sealant is binding within the substrate, so the fill can match the substrate perfectly.

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Encapsulating loosened objects such as wooden frames, chair legs, metal and composite parts

An excellent treatment for loose joints. Acrylic-120C can be drip fed into the interface between the two objects. For well worn joints first fill any voids with dry filler.

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Sealing objects without the need to dismantle, for example, deck fittings, windows on boats and caravans

As with most applications, using Acrylic-120C the advantage of being able to apply the sealant without dismantling is considerable. Jointing compounds that require dismantling eventually dry and crack, losing their sealing ability.

Acrylic-120C neither dries or cracks and is hydrophilic – expands when in contact with water, ensuring the interface remains sealed.

Unlike mastics that need removing before resealing, Acrylic-120C impregnation can be re-applied as and when further sealing is necessary.

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Encapsulation of computer generated paper vehicle number plates

A simple and effective way to produce additional vehicle number plates. First produce the shape and size of the paper plate on the computer. Lay out a film of polythene on a flat surface large enough to overlap the paper printout by 20mm.

Prepare a further sheet of polythene of the same dimensions and put to one side.

Mix 10ml of sealant for A4 size and pour onto the paper printout, ensuring that it is evenly distributed.

Place the second layer of polythene on top of the paper and with a roller of any type, displace surplus sealant and particularly trapped air bubbles from the encapsulation.

Bear in mind that the sealant cures rapidly and so it is necessary to be prepared and to work quickly in order to produce the right results.

Do not give up if the first attempt is not satisfactory, the final result can be quite impressive. For a more robust number plate fibre glass can be added.

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Locking threads, sealing of pipe fittings

It is possible to hand assemble pipe fittings, placing outlets where you need them, even if they remain loose.

Once you are happy with the assembly, mix up Acrylic-120C and drip feed the joints to a point of saturation. There is no need to orientate the assembly.

This is a leak free method, allowing pressures up to the bursting pressure of the assembly.

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Preservation of sand sculptures & composite materials

This is simple and straight forward, achieved by spraying Acrylic-120C from above, allowing a curtain of sealant to flow over the surface in order to achieve saturation of the substrate.

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Encapsulation of rotted wood – window frames etc …

It is important to ensure that the rot is dry. If this is unlikely to be the case, dig out the rot and discard.

The cavity may then be dry filled with cotton wood well compressed down and then impregnated. It is important to ensure that the interface between the filler and the wooden surround is fully saturated with sealant. Pre-filling may also be achieved using granular mineral filler or coarse sand.

Allow sufficient depth from the surface for finishing with an exterior regular wood filler before painting.

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Pressure sealing of porous castings against leakage

Clearly identify the area of leakage. If it is to an external face, consider how the Acrylic-120C can be forced into the porosity. This is especially important when the contamination within the porosity is oil.

A hypodermic syringe can sometimes exert sufficient spot pressure to flush the defective area through with cleaning solvent. Take time to do this as this step is important.

Once you are satisfied that the porosity is free of oil and other liquids, inject with Acrylic-120C. It may be necessary to first make up a sealing head with an O ring and to polish the porous area to obtain a level of sealing face.

For more detail, see Sealing Casting Leakage by Impregnation with Acrylic 120C

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Reconstruction and levelling of ceramic floor tiles

Floors sometimes crack because the bed on which the tile sits is defective. Lift the tile using small vacuum plunger level with floor surface and inject/flood Acrylic-120C below the tile whilst it is suspended.

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Repair of damaged wooden structures

Each case has to be considered on its merits. The great thing about Acrylic-120C is that reconstruction can be quick. The important ingredients are polythene, cotton wool, clamps and strips of planed timber.

Refit any broken parts of the split timber. Any missing parts can be subsituted with cotton filler. Tightly cover with polythene and drip feed from above with Acrylic-120C.

Mix just a little at a time. If necessary inject through the film to ensure that all areas are saturated. Allow five minutes for the sealant to cure and remove clamps and polythene.

Further fill any uncovered voids with cotton and sealant and leave for thirty minutes to harden up.

Rasp type tools may then be used to finally shape the recovered area.

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Sealing of bathroom fittings against leakage

Sink drain fittings are a constant source of leakage and can be simply cured with a drop or two of Acrylic-120C. The same applies around the shower pan.

In some instances where gaps are large it might take more than one application to achieve the desired results.

Use cotton wool where voids are too large for sealant alone.

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Repositioning and fixing of roof tiles and slates

Cotton wool is ideal for re-fixing tiles and slates. Simply take a small wad of cotton and saturate it with Acrylic-120C and place between the two surfaces and hold in position until the sealant has cured.

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Repairing car/van bodies against corrosion and leakage

Acrylic-120C is ideal for sealing body leaks against moisture ingress around windows, car aerials etc.

Corrosion can be dealt with using cotton wool and sealant to build up lost areas. Body trim can be secured by taking a small wad of cotton and saturating it with Acrylic-120C and place between the two surfaces and hold in position until the sealant has cured.

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Repair of leaking engine parts, radiator etc

Simple leaks can often be sealed using Acrylic-120C by applying saturated cotton padding directly onto the leaking area.

First, the cavity must be compressed air blasted at maximum airline pressure at point blank range to remove any debris before x-seal application. Massage the saturated cotton pad over the leakage area until pad it gets warm – commencement of curing. Wipe away surplus sealant.

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Sealing rope ends to avoid fraying

As an alternative to whipping, bind the rope with insulation tape either side of the point at which the rope is to be cut.

Cut the rope and immediately dip the ends directly into prepared Acrylic-120C.

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Pre-filling cavities with dry filler

Cavities and voids that occur in structures can be simply filled with tightly packed cotton wool (supplied on the base in the kit) prior to application of the sealant. In certain instances the impregnation sealant can be injected into the mass using a hypodermic syringe and needle.

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Regenerating tired screw holes with cotton caulking wool

Fill the screw hole with tightly packed cotton wool and then apply the Acrylic-120C. Once the sealant has cured simply drill a pilot hole into the filled cavity to take the screw.

Lamination of composite materials

The impregnation sealant will be found to readily wet out glass fibre and other such composite materials.

Because of the rapid speed of application together with the short cure time of the sealant, structures can be produced in minutes rather than hours.